On the bus ride from Kaunas on the 10th (Sat) I did a lot of reading and watching of the Baltic country side. It consisted of a lot of open land with old abandoned wooden buildings, farms, woods of tall/thin trees that the approaching winter had shaken of its leaves, yet there was still a lot of green to be seen. The sun started to set at 1620! Seemed odd, but I had forgotten that I was actually at quite a high latitude.
At the border a guy in a green uniform came on the bus to check passports, and he took the passports that belonged to us non-EU citizens to get a stamp...which was exciting. I love getting stamps in my passport, but in many EU countries, if you come from another EU country, EU citizen or not, they don't stamp your passport.
Riga welcomed me with Christmas lights in its trees...and it was a much bigger city than Kaunas! It had high rise buildings, department stores, and busy streets. Yet, it did not feel the same as a big Western European city that has the same characteristics, it was distinctly Eastern European somehow...
After I checked into my hostel, Elizabeth Hostel, I went to eat at a place in Old Town ("1739"). I had some Latvian pancakes and a fruit salad in a waffle bowl...very good. As I made my way back to my hostel to go to bed I couldn't help but think this city would be charming at Christmas time. Since there were already Christmas lights in some of the trees and it was so historic, with snow and some Christmas cheer/smells/songs/treats I am sure it is divine.
On day two in Riga (Sunday, 11 Nov) I continued to fall more in love with and feel more at home in Eastern Europe. The best way I can describe Riga is "ChristmasLand: a charming chill, trees shaken of their leaves, tea shops on every corner (haven from the cold), and the smell (and wonderful taste) of fresh baked pastries everywhere.
At around 9am I headed off to the Central Market (located behind the bus station) as it was said to be one of the largest in Europe. It was pretty big, selling flowers, clothes, CDs, produce, bread, sweets, meat, dairy, and fish. It was both in doors and out. I sampled a poppy-seed-roll-pastry that reminded me of something similar my mom and I always get in Iowa (it is Czech), and I also sampled some of the local rye bread which I guess is a staple to Latvians. I saw several huge displays of sauerkraut and thought of mom and dad as they love the stuff. :)
Next I went into Old Town to go take in the big sights as this Riga Tourism magazine recommended (found it in my hostel). Here is what I saw:
-House of Blackheads: "Blackheads was an organisation of unmarried foreign merchants. -St. Peter's Church: built before 1209, "example of Gothic architecture in the Baltics", "meant to be the main church in town" -St. George's Church: built in 1204 -St. John's Church: built after 1234 -St. John's Yard -"Convent's Yard"
-Great Guild: built over 150 years ago, consisted of merchants, jewellers, and writers
-Small Guild: built over 150 years ago, consisted of craftsmen
-Cat's House: "named after the two cats perched on the roof-at the turn of the century, the owner of the building was exiled from the Great Guild across the street and ordered the cats to be turned with their tails towards the Guild. Cat's were eventually turned back after the man was admitted back into the guild"
-Dome Cathedral: largest cathedral in the Baltics founded in the 13th century.
-Pulvera Tower: defended the city from the side of the Big Sand Road, later used to store gunpowder and cannon balls. -Jacob's Barracks -old fortification wall -Swedish Gate: "added in 1698 to celebrate the Scandinavian occupation of Riga...the city's executioner resided int he apartment above the gate...an exceedingly Romantic and considerate fellow, he placed a red rose in his window the night before a good execution." -St. Jacob's Church: built before 1225, church for suburban residents
-"Three Brothers": "best examples of residential buildings of medieval Riga...the 'eldest' brother is the oldest stone dwelling in Riga (15th Century)".
-Riga Castle: built around 1209 by the Order of the Sword Brothers, destroyed during a civil war, is now the president's residence.
Every time I got too cold I would pop into a tea shop, my favorite being "Amelie" that was a wooden-two-story shop fashioned in a French style with an influence from the movie "Amelie"...it had a great view of the Old Town from its upstairs window and the owner had a collection of thimbles from around the world.
On Monday (12 November) I woke up early and went to go to a bookstore near old town (always bookstores with me you know ;) What was I greeted by as I walked outside: SNOW! I got to walk through historic Eastern Europe, my ChristmasLand, in Softly falling snow. It was so magical I was swept away into my own Romantic dream world. In old town I really felt I had waled into a life size Ginger-bread-house-type-scene or perhaps a life-size Snow Globe. God blesses me in little ways such as this...they are the ones that make the most difference in my life.
At the book store i ended up buying two books about Latvia (fiction): "Baltic Amber" (about folklore and history) and "Puppet Maker" (about Cold War Era and into modern times). Then I headed back through the snow to get my bag and head to the bus station to get my Euroline bus back to Kaunas.
HIGHLIGHT OF RIGA: Walking through my Christmasland in softly falling Snow! And being greeted by Christmas tree lights upon entering the city.
Old Town:
1. Charming Side Street
2. St. Jacob's Church
3. "Three Brothers"
4. Riga Castle
5. St. John's Church
6.Pulvera (Gunpowder) Tower
7. Small Guild
8. Cat's House
9. Back of St. George's Church
10. St. John's Yard
11. "Convent's Yard"
11. Dome Cathedral
12. Random Statue
14. Swedish Gate
15. St Peter's church (or another church perhaps?)
Other Riga Sightings:
1. Art Nouveau Architecture
2. Other cool architecture (following two photos)
3. View from "Amelie" tea shop
4. Freedom Monument: built in 1935, the 3 stars rep. 3 regions of Latvia
5. Pretty park
6. Night shot near old town
7. Christmas wreaths at Central market
8. Sauerkraut (for mom and dad;)
9. Latvian Rye Bread
9. Poppy seed roll/pastry
10. Latvian Harry Potter
1 comments:
Latvia seems cool too, and it's a place I wouldn't have thought to go...
especially that 'random' statue... it reminds me of Orwell's animal farm for some reason haha
oh, and I have a request, since you keep finding Harry potter in every language (which it is in EVERY language... even irish and Latin and classical greek)
If you happen to cruise through the Czech Republic again on this journey and you feel you have enough space in your bag or can mail it back, could you perhaps get the FIRST Harry potter in Czech? Even if it is used (which would make it cheaper). Trying to order it straight from Czechia will be expensive than paying you back to do it in person (i think...) but if that is wrong or if it is a burden then it's cool, just ssay so
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